Monday, November 24, 2008

Rachie, I am truly sorry that I cannot correctly pronounce Merci for the life of me!

very pre-occupied cat


I know this post is long overdue, considering that I will be home in approximately two weeks I realize that I have a lot to write about. Hopefully that will also include about my daily life, sites of Saint Petersburg, the magnificent Mariinsky Theater, and maybe some other random comments. But now, onto Paris.





I arrived in Paris late on Sunday night because I had a lot of trouble finding my way around the Charles De Gaulle Airport. Thankfully, I had packed all my stuff for Moscow and Paris in my mini traveling suitcase (so small you can actually take it on the plane as a “carry-on”, however I had liquids in it, so it was checked) and traipsing around the terminal was not the most painful experience. My friend, Rachel, who I was staying with that week was living at the Cite Universitaire, and it was located just inside the borders of Paris in the South. The only problem was, I arrived Sunday night and she would not be back home from Barcelona until Monday. So there I was, standing in the corridor of her dormitory wondering how I was supposed to get in her room. My internet connection before I left had been atrocious, and I never received her last message of her friend, Gwen’s phone number, or Rachel’s room number. A receptionist tried to help me but she told me if I didn’t speak French she couldn’t help me. I couldn’t speak French. After a few failed attempts of trying to call up to Gwen and Rachel’s room I stood in the lobby, looking pathetic and eyeing the couch in the corner as a possible bed for the night. Than through the corridor came this short friendly looking girl and asked me if I was Liz, I said yes and gave her a big hug.


Rachel and Me in front of the Lourve

The Lourve at Dusk

The next morning I woke up really early because I was used to waking up at 7am in St. Petersburg and France was also two hours behind in time. I decided to go for a walk outside because it was Fall again (in Russia all the leaves were gone by this point), and it was warm and beautiful outside. I walked around the campus and around the park. Rachel got in about 11am and we went to a café for brunch where I had my first real baguettes. They were absolutely delicious.


People watching outside Cafe de Flore

It was very bizarre to hear a different language after spending three months in Russia and people only speaking Russian. It was also very bizarre to have conversations with random people once again. I never realized how many people spoke English before, and for how many people English was a second language. After being in Russia, France seemed an incredibly friendly and optimistic country. But, I do not know how this would seem after actually living in France. When entering a store, or restaurant, it’s impolite NOT to say Bonjour, as opposed to in Russia where sometimes they look at me like I’m strange when I say Dratzvoitya. I also learned that even if I completely butcher every word I attempt to say in French (I’m limited to about 7 words by the way), they still smile and tell me how well I speak (and these people aren’t always trying to sell me things either). On the other hand, when I’m in Russia I’ll say something (and to me it sounds exactly the way a Russian says it) I’ll get a very quizzical look in response. I think I’m going to go back to studying Spanish after my trip now I realize how easy a language it is.

In the Le Bois de Boulongne

Parc Andre Citroen

Le Bois de Boulogne

Rachie posing in Parc de la Villette

I did spend the week going to many parks, museums, churchs, and DEPARTMENT stores. Okay, I admit it, I was ecstatic to see a real department store once again. Russia will do this to you. I went shoe shopping at the Galleries Lafayette, and they HAD my shoe size (in both shoes I wanted to try on), it was incredible. And yes, I walked out with a pair of boots from the mall. Paris made me feel like a girl, or devushka again.

The Pompidou Center - Museum of Modern Art, designed partially by architect Renzo Piano. I have to say I enjoyed the building much more than the artwork, I don't yet have a palette for most modern works.




The Musee d'Orsay, my favorite museum, located in an old train station, it now houses a grand collection of impressionistic works

In general, women in Paris are not very tall, they don’t wear obvious makeup, they wear comfortably chic clothes, and they walk around in flats or flat boots. I don’t know if I’ve described the stereotypical Russian woman for you yet. Skinny, tall, beautiful, lots and lots of makeup (don’t forget lipstick), straightened hair, tight jeans, high heeled black shiny boots, and fur coats. A French girl in Russia would seem underdressed, and Russian girl in Paris looks like a Prostitute: hmm, very different cultures.





When asked what my favorite aspect about Paris is I always have to respond the alleyways (especially around the Marai). I love the street life, day and night. The crepes made on the streets and the scent of pastries in the air. I love the way people sit outside and eat in bubbling cafes and all the boutiques lining the alley. It was a step back into time for me, and I felt like a character in a novel like so many I have been reading lately.



Me, Ewa, and Rachel enjoying our delicious flavors of gelato




Rachel ordering a crepe

I really loved my trip to Paris, and it was wonderful to spend time with Rachel, her mom, and her friends. It’s strange that she and I are leading such different lives this semester, but at Cornell we’re together almost every single day.


Rachie's Painting Studio

One of my favorite experiences was attending her Figure Drawing class. I had never taken a figure drawing class before and it’s been a while since I’ve put my sketching tools to work, and for the first time I drew standing up, using an easel and charcoal to draw. For most of the sketches we only had 2 minutes to sketch the figure, an actor currently playing Mufasa in the Musical The Lion King. I kept hearing over and over again what my high school art teacher, Mr. Heck had taught me long ago, to draw what I see, and not what I think I see. Rachel’s teacher told me I picked the techniques up pretty fast, but I’ll never know if she was just being extra nice to me…but for myself I did pick up a few lessons that I will take with me.



The incredible Chagall painting inside The Palais Garnier Opera House

On the way back to St. Petersburg, I wasn’t upset to leave Paris, I actually was very happy to be going “home.” Home to St. Petersburg for my final month. Paris was wonderful, but I cannot judge it on the same terms as I do St. Petersburg. It was a vacation there, but here I live. I didn’t get to see the “ugliness” that I do here. As I said before, I have this love-hate relationship with this country – and I have to understand the good as well as the bad.




The Cathedral of Notre Dame



Getting frustrated in front of Notre Dame with Ewa's picture-taking skills :)
and Ewa and Rachie in front of the Seine - so cute





Versailles (during the Fall when the statues are covered and the fountains are turned off)




Rolling on the River, and then Freezing on the River Seine




Aww I love you Rachie :)

Why doesn't anyone leave me messages?

Okay so sometimes I check my blog mainly to see if anyone has left any comments. But I think there have only been three comments total. I know from mommy that a few people have been reading, but I really do wish for feedback, or comments, or messages from America! Maybe something I've said triggered a memory for you. Well, please tell me. Or if there is something you want me to talk about, leave a note. I also see that I have three followers, but I know more of you are reading. Hmm, oh well, if you wish to remain an anonymous reader so be it, but I'd love to hear from you.


Maria, me, and Aunt Joanne in "The Idiot" Cafe

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Moscow - The Most Expensive City in the World

I have to say, I am grateful to be living in St. Petersburg, because I would not be able to afford Moscow if I lived there for four months. We were excited to only pay about 500 rubles for dinner Friday night at a diner (yes, I had a cheeseburger in Russia and it was delicious. I’ve been here for 3 months, I am allowed.) I do not even want to know what our hotel bill was at the Cosmos (the biggest hotel in the world that has 4,000 beds or 4,000 rooms – I can’t remember which).

The hotel was built for the 1984 Olympics in Moscow and has the most bizarre layout ever complete with a casino, bowling alley, club, gift shops, bar, restaurant, salon, and equipped with rugs that are supposed to look like the galaxy. The building in curved in a U shape, so it takes forever to traverse to your friends’ rooms on the other side of the hall, or galaxy.

To get to Moscow, we took an overnight train from St. Petersburg.

It was the first time that I even slept in a cabin on a train and I really enjoyed the experience (I should have gotten a little more sleep but all of my classmates and I were on the same train together and since we don’t live together regularly it was what I like to call “socializing time”.)

After we arrived in Moscow at 7am we ate a buffet breakfast at the hotel and then went for a bus tour around Moscow. Moscow is a HUGE city, and the streets are very wide. The population is 14 million, but with commuters as well as tourists the real number is closer to 17 million – Wow - and you also need to see their extensive metro system. As much as people say that Moscow’s metro stations are like museums – I wasn’t super impressed by those I witnessed - I guess I didn’t see the special ones. Overall they were nicer than New York, but they were not as beautiful as some in St. Petersburg. I guess I’m a little biased.

I guess Dave doesn't want to be picked up!


We were supposed to be paying attention and posing in front of the Kremlin


Driving around Moscow I began to notice the differences between the two cities. Moscow seemed to be a very fast paced city and had very contrasting architectural styles - soviet, classical, and baroque. What greatly upset me about the city was the advertisement pollution. Currently there is an effort to start pulling down many of the billboards and clean up the city’s image. However it is going to take a very long time for this to happen. One of the worst in my opinion is the BOOM wall behind St. Basils. While taking a photography stroll in the Red Square two weeks ago, I noticed the huge digital billboard advertising cars behind St. Basils. I was disgusted. The one advertisement I didn’t mind seeing all over the place was the one for the new James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace.

And no, I have not seen it yet, and hope to see it within the next week, first in English, then in Russian. (I called up three places today and none of them are playing it in English. My first conversation was in broken Russenglish and then I got better and the next two were in Russian :)

The lake that inspired Swan Lake


Friday night a couple of my friends and I took a trip to Moscow’s Tretyakov Gallery.

The collection was divided up into two museums, and we decided to see the older one which spanned from Byzantium relics to early 20th century art. The museum was incredible and we stayed for two and a half hours. The Tretrayakov Gallery carries solely Russian art, and contains much more of each Russian artist than in the Hermitage or the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg. It also contains most of the works on the artist I wrote about in my paper, Isaac Levitan, as well as an incredible exhibit on Vbrubel – whose “demon” paintings really intrigued me. Please Google Vbrubel, he has some very interesting and very “different” artwork.

Saturday we took a class trip to the Kremlin and it was really incredible, as you can see in some of the pictures below.

The Kremlin Walls

Courtney and Me in front of the largest cannon ever built, but not surprisingly, never used

It was an absolutely (but very cold) beautiful day. Inside the Armoury I saw the coronation gowns, thrones, carriages, and crowns of the tsars and tsarinas - - AND the Fabergš eggs! After the Kremlin we walked into the Red Square – it is incredible (as well at night too).

Our first view of St. Basil's Cathedral

Of course, I had to go inside GUM, the famous shopping mall whose architecture blew me away. Do not worry Mommy, I only went clothes shopping in Paris, not Moscow :)

Inside GUM, it was a rich girl's paradise

GUM at night

Afterwards, I was running around like a chicken without a head because I wanted to visit St. Basils, go to the huge open market and purchase souvenirs as well as get back in time to try to catch a performance of Tosca at the Bolshoi Theater. Unfortunately I never made it home in time before my friends left (I was 45 minutes late), so I went out with my friends to dinner instead and then walked around the Red Square at night with my friend David.


The next morning was a little hectic, because I missed my metro stop and then had to switch trains and go back, and then I couldn’t figure out where the train was to the airport. I asked a babushka for help, but she gave me too many directions, so there I was staring at all the trains, and this old Russian guy comes up to me and starts talking to me. I finally figured out that he was trying to help me. He picked up my suitcase and walked me up and down the escalators and brought me to exactly where I needed to go. And yes, he afterwards asked me for my number in New York, but I pretended not to understand and said goodbye…no hassle though! Ha ha.


Some caparisons between Moscow and St. Petersburg. Moscow’s metro is a lot more complicated and much more intricate. I can pick up the different dialects (and I like Petersburgers better!) There are many more men in Moscow than in St. Petersburg. I now consider Moscow a men’s city, whereas St. Petersburg is a women’s city. And the men in Moscow are not all alcoholics and dress nicely. Muscovites ARE friendly, we had many people stop what they were doing to help us out, and even out of their way to get us to the right place.

Well, that’s it for now. Be prepared for the update of my Paris vacation. Coming Soon! (Oh and it snowed today – Palace Square was beautiful)